Though now
in the capital city of Asuncion, the midweek training run was out in the campo
on a red dirt road, which led to a fast-flowing river, for which the crossing
was a narrow rickety hump-back bridge.
Nicely into
my run rhythm, I set out over it. As I got the middle, the humped bit, so did a
heard of grey hump-back Zebu cattle, coming the other way. They had sizeable
humps, big ears, and huge horns. To go with their humps and horns, some had
calves, some rolling eyes, and others only balls.
They
snorted but did not stop coming towards me, nor I towards them. I was loath to
turn back, or turn my back on them. But I did wonder about the colour of my
shorts, bright red, and whether I was about to find out if there was any truth
in the saying ´Like a red rag to a bull . . . ´
As we got
closer to one another, I reflected on advice once heard, that, when facing a
herd of cattle, whether on a country stroll in England or a hot run in
Paraguay, it´s best to ´stand your ground´ and take your dog off the lead.
Suffice to
say, I toughed it out, jogged on, took the right side of the bridge and they
the left. In passing one another, within hot breath and horn-touching distance,
we exchanged the occasional snort, the kind that some people do naturally part
way through parkrun. Happily, I got to the other side of the bridge without
mishap, except for putting my foot into one cow´s parting pat!
This
Saturday´s Freedom parkrun proper in Paraguay was a city run. Since this part
of South America is three hours behind Swindon and, of course, I wanted to be
running in synch with everyone in Lydiard Park, even though your 3 degrees is
somewhat cooler than our 30, just before 6am local time, I slipped on my
trusty now dusty trainers and headed out onto the silent streets of old
Asuncion.
Through an
obstacle course of protruding paving stones, I ran past the occasional armed
guard, sleeping policeman, or cluster of soldiers; past hard-working chipa
women on street corners with their big baskets of fresh oven-hot chipa
(begel-like buns made of maize flour and cheese, a breakfast staple in
Paraguay) setting out their stalls for the day; past inevitable sightings of
the indigenous poor sleeping rough; and past feral dogs beside them. Apart from
these, there were virtually no other signs of life in a usually bustling
city.
Giving
myself half an hour of running time, in true steady parkrun style, I headed for
the big Rio Paraguay, a great sluggish snake of a river more than a kilometre
wide. On a newly built walkway for the traditional weekend paseos (walks)
I ran along it, as the sun rose over the sleeping city. Bliss!
And bliss
too on my return, was the cold shower, the endogenous morphine, and the jug
full of freshly-squeezed ice-cold orange juice.
Hope yours
was a good one too!
Saludos a
Swindon.
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